When Marcus And Anthony Came To Dinner

How can you not love Thanksgiving?

Its the one true day a year that you can get away with eating almost anything, all day long, and the best part is you have leftovers for like a month. Do you get sick of eating turkey after a week? Yeah, us either. That stuff goes with almost anything. Its a great lean protein that can be utilized in soups, stocks, casseroles, sandwiches and a ton of other options. You can use the stuffing/dressing a million different ways too. And green beans. And cranberry sauce. And...

You know what, we're just going to stop here because two new cookbooks have arrived just in time for the big day of feasting and giving thanks for doing so. We here at the Homeskillet are big fans of both cookbooks along with the chefs/authors as well.

The always engaging Marcus Samuelsson has finally given us a full rendition of what goes on in his Harlem restaurant Red Rooster and Anthony Bourdain breaks down his favorite recipes from all of his travels and time honored traditions in his first actual cookbook.

Plus Xmas is arriving quicker than you think so both of these food tomes would make an awesome gift for that fussy "foodie" home cook buddy of yours. Both of these books are unpretentious, a bit artsy but most importantly jammed with all sorts of fun ideas and innovative recipes.

Let's get started shall we?

"Red Rooster : The Cookbook"

By Marcus Samuelsson

We have been a huge fan of Marcus' for a long time now. It wasn't only his incredible rise to culinary power, but after reading his memoir, Yes, Chef, we kind of fell in love with him.

Lots of longtime Harlem residents have both praised and chastised Samuelsson for bringing his concept to a neighborhood that, at one time, was thought to be quite, um..."dubious". Now it seems because of Red Rooster and its upscale jazzy approach to soul food, it and he have invited other like minded chefs and business owners to join them. Some residents love that their neighborhood has gotten a well deserved face lift while others find it has become gentrified and with the new digs a new rent hike has come into place.

Whatever the case may be, Marcus Samuelsson can cook and by the character of his other works, the man can really write too.

Red Rooster is a departure from his other cookbooks, Marcus Off Duty or The Soul of a New Cuisine, which are more straight ahead cookbooks, where Red Rooster features more of the community that help build, inspire and support his iconic restaurant. The pictures are stunning, creating an air of musicality and swingtime style which go great along with the eclectic and savory recipes.

The book goes from some suggestions of the ingredients you will need to make a successful dish, advice on how to stock your pantry, tools you will want in the kitchen and a whole laundry list of tips, techniques and even music playlists to get you moving and cooking.

Red Rooster is very new Harlem and very Samuelsson which makes this one of our new favorite cookbooks of 2016.

As far as Thanksgiving is concerned you can find a slew, a slew!, of inspiration to make a memorable meal this year. And next year too if you like. Whatever man. It's your cookbook...do with it what you will.

We really like his "Bird Broth" recipe that infused white miso and jalapeno on a down home take on traditional ramen. There are also a ton of chicken recipes, such as hot wings and chicken and waffles, along with lamb and all sorts of fun ideas for a delicious yet uncommon family dinner.

His herb roasted turkey with cranberry gravy is delectable and smart. Using parts garam masala, lavender, ruby port and even prune juice, this one will surely turn heads as grandma pipes up "But this isn't the turkey I used to make!" followed by everyone rolling their eyes and sighing in relief.

And after the holiday has come to pass and you still have half a bird leftover, his recipe for a Thanksgiving banh mi is really fun. This time we use the livers and he walks you through a simple process of dusting the offal, deglazing your skillet and assembling the sandwich. It's pretty simple and a great way to use some parts you normally might throw away. Now we are not a huge fan of livers but this take changed our minds.

Or if you wanna cook short ribs for Thanksgiving he provides the recipe for the ones he made for the Obamas for their first inauguration. Using plum sauce, some horseradish and a few herbs, this one just feels, and tastes, like eight years of awesome. We plan on making these when whats his name takes office in January. We plan on fighting the power with the strength of good food.

At least they can't take that away from us.

Included in Red Rooster are playful cocktail recipes, delicious side dish options, appetizers and desserts. Sure, you'd expect all that from a normal cookbook, but what makes this one so special is the man behind your mouth watering.

Marcus Samuelsson was born in Africa, raised in Sweden, trained abroad and now calls New York his home. The influences from his life come alive on these pages and it makes you want to don a sharp suit, pick up a saxophone and blow soulfully into the night knowing that at the end of the jam session some blackened catfish, peanut bacon pork chops, curried goat stew and a strong house cocktail made with homemade ginger beer and black rum waits for you.

This book is vibrant, it is essential and best of all it has stories to tell.

You have to think; Marcus is a writer at heart. His memoir was so well done that it took our basic fandom to a new level of respect after reading it. Heartbreaking and captivating, Yes, Chef should be in the library of any food fan or cook.

There are so many narratives in Red Rooster that you almost feel as if you own a novel with a bunch of pictures in it rather than an elegant street smart book filled with innovative, sumptuous while at the same time hands on recipes to bring your family, and community, together.

This Thanksgiving do everyone you are cooking for a favor by picking up a copy of Red Rooster and see how many smiles you can muster up by giving them something new to both eat and think about.

Or give it as a Xmas gift. Either way.

Red Rooster rules.

"Appetites : A Cookbook"

By Anthony Bourdain

Now you all know Anthony Bourdain right? Yeah, of course you do. He's like super famous now. You've seen him on the TV on such shows as No Reservations, The Layover, Parts Unknown and various appearances on chef competitions and the like. He has traveled all over the world, probably several times over by now, and has a taste for real and sometimes debatable street food.

He likes to drink, he swears, he was a heroin addict, he's brash, he's funny and best of all the man can really frikkin' write. In some cases, and even according to him, Anthony Bourdain is a better writer than he was a chef and Bourdain was quite an accomplished chef so that's saying a lot.

So it's really cool that he actually wrote a cookbook and, yes, just like the guy that wrote it, it is intriguing, amusing, sometimes scary but best of all totally entertaining.

Basically if Anthony Bourdain is going to compose a cookbook, you know you can trust it.

This is a man that puts up with very little bullpucky and it comes across on his shows, in his writing and most importantly his food. Appetites is just another reflection of what he has bestowed upon the globe as far as his take on food and eating is concerned. Its full of candid, slightly insolent photographs, some teetering on the grim and near pornographic. The colors are as raw as the subject matters; chicken pieces, whole boars heads, steamy piles of red noodles served in helmets, bloody jujitsu gear, stuff like that.

Composed alongside these shots are recipes both fairly commonplace and extrinsic. You have wedge salads, Caesar salads even, deviled eggs, lasagne, sandwiches and so forth. But these are dishes that Bourdain deems worthy of writing about and putting his name on so you know the techniques and ingredients are not going to disappoint.

And they dont.

Of course, just like Marcus Samuelsson, Appetites is filled with all kinds of well crafted stories and anecdotes, most filled with profanity and blunt observations. But you expect this from the man. This is why we love him.

But we are not here just to blow smoke up Bourdain's bum, we want to talk turkey here. Thanksgiving turkey most importantly.

This is why Appetites works on so many levels and can be added to this here blog post.

Bourdain has a whole section in his book totally dedicated to doing a Thanksgiving that will be not only tasty but relatively stress free.

Here's how he does it:

Bourdain breaks down what you need to do for a successful Thanksgiving in three days, all of which should start about a week before the actual event.

Day 1 is buying all of the stuff you will need: vegetables, herbs, butter, oil, bread, seasonings, etc etc. And this is where things get awesome: He suggests buying two birds instead of just the one. Yes. He has one called the "stunt turkey", this is the smaller version that is on display for the family and can be used for sandwiches and stock later. Then there is the "business turkey" which is the actual turkey you will be serving. It's a bigger version of its stunt double and will already be sliced and dealt with when family arrives.

Clever huh?

Day 2 is making stock into gravy, assembling and baking the stuffing, making his cranberry relish (whole orange, some cranberries and sugar...that's it) and putting it in the fridge and, of course, knocking out all of your side dish prep. This way when the third Thursday in November rolls around all you gotta do is keep everything warm, keep everyone happy and get into the Thanksgiving nog.

Is there a Thanksgiving nog? We sure hope not.

Day 3 is roasting the stunt turkey, finishing the side dishes, roasting and dismantling the business turkey, fixing the stuffing to your liking, making the stunt turkey look all pretty and displaying the business turkey in a delightful manner.

The side dish recipes are awesome: Robuchon (use a ricer) style mashed potatoes, creamed pearl onions, candied sweet potatoes and bacon-y Brussels sprouts.

If you follow the simple rules that Bourdain lays out then your Thanksgiving should be fairly tension free. Unless uncle Jeb gets into the horse liquor again and starts chanting old Polynesian naughty limericks to the kids then you might have a problem there.

Appetites as well as Red Rooster are simply fantastic cookbooks by simply fantastic chefs that can really write as well.

We love both the chef's take on Thanksgiving, or at least components that could be construed as Thanksgiving, and it is up to you to find inspiration from both Samuelsson and Bourdain to make a memorable holiday feast.

But as both authors say, its good to have have a razor sharp and heavy chef knife, always have a "mise en place" (everything in place) in your kitchen ready to go (salt, pepper, oils, spices, onions, garlic, etc) and always have some kind of music playing. This is important to keep the rhythm of the cooking and maneuvering around the kitchen like a schizophrenic ballet more enjoyable.

But is it safe to cook while listening to Thrash Metal?

We are about to find out.

Happy Thanksgiving everyone!

Camera, Typing & Eating
"Metal" Mark Whittaker
The Week Before Thanksgiving, 2016

Metal Influence:

BLOOD FEAST

"Chopping Block Blues"

Tucson Homeskillet's Top 5 Cookbooks of 2015

Well, 2015 is almost coming to a close and for us here at the Tucson Homeskillet it has been a good year. After taking an unexpected hiatus due to many circumstances beyond our or anyone's control, we came back with a new focus, new look, a new energy and, most importantly, an honest to goodness real web address.

Being an avid reader of cookbooks and having my day job working for the library, I was lucky enough to come across a bunch of amazing and not-so-great cookbooks this year. Seeing as there is still a little time to shop for Xmas, I thought I might list my top five cookbooks of 2015 and perhaps inspire some gift giving for that chef or home cook you think has it all.

It took a while to nail down the top cookbooks from this year but after some re-reading and re-cooking some of the dishes we think we have the winners.

You ready?

Here we go...



5) "The Laws of Cooking *and how to break them" by Justin Warner

Justin Warner won season 6 of Food Network Star and now he has a cookbook. Because that's what you do when that happens. Unfortunately, this is our least favorite book on the list but...it still made the list. For a hodge podge of various reasons, we really liked this book even if it kind of annoyed us at times.

The book is colorful and full of fun and frolic and for that we know this will go over well with the younger cooking enthusiasts. Plus his grilled cheese raviolis with tomato soup was amazing as was the ginger bruleed grapefruit and his brisket and oxtail pho. We have yet to try the Dr. Pepper beef braised tongue tacos but that is next on the list. There are lots of helpful charts, easy to follow tips and recipes and strewn throughout the over 300+ page book you are taken on a rollicking culinary journey by a spunky and curious young cook.

One of the many helpful hints you find throughout "The Laws of Cooking"

One of our biggest complaints is that this book can be a bit goofy at times and is kind of all over the place. Normally that isn't a bad thing since that tends to describe Metal Mark on a regular basis, but there is just this under current of pretentious and youthful over confidence that permeates these pages in an almost eye buckling manner. Sure the recipes, the charts, the list of "gear" that you will need to make the dish a success is great but it is quite obvious this kid wants to be Alton Brown.

Picture this, if Rachel Ray and Alton spawned a sub-hipster of a chef, Justin would be that kid. I'm not saying that's a bad thing. But once you glean the pages of this cookbook you'll see what I am going on about.

Again, more fun hints you can rely on

Plus there are a lot of pictures of him. Like, almost as much as the food. If not more so.

And the use of "dippin' sauce", "nuggs" and, of course, "Yolo" seem a little over done.

I'm sure it's tasty but...please

But I digress! We love this book. I just had to point out all of the shortcomings to emphasize that Justin Warner is talented and is on his way to a great culinary career, be it in front of the camera or in the back of the kitchen creating whimsical and not too lofty recipes. Some, though, were a bit of a challenge. One involving cooking with sardine skeletons seemed like a pain to create but overall the dishes here are hands on and very creative. Sometimes a bit too creative, if you know what I mean. Like, there are some ingredients and twists here and there that reek of culinary school valedictorian just waiting to show you what they are made of. Once the ego dust settles down though, you have a tight cookbook with flair and imagination.

"The Laws of Cooking" is a perfect gift for that quirky youth with a penchant for pissing you off because they are a better cook than you, and they don't even try. With this, they will find new ideas and gumptions in which to further your love/anger for them when they hit the griddle.

Justin's god...and yours too apparently

4) "Sea and Smoke: Flavors From The Untamed Pacific Northwest" by Blaine Wetzel

"Sea and Smoke" is a beautifully crafted and meticulous cookbook that is more memoir than recipe tome. The first half is the tale of the chef Blaine Wetzel and how he came to command the innards of the Willows Inn on Lummi Island off of the shore of Washington state. This is a glorious book to have out on display for like minded friends to page through and glamour at all of the impossibly fantastic notions of what food is and what it could be.

But as far as being a practical cookbook? Ehh...

When master chef Achatz gives you a nod, you know you doing good

As a lover of high end food; dishes that are thought about, rehearsed, refined and developed, "Sea and Smoke" had me drooling over food I know I will probably never get to eat (unless this blog takes off and I get an invite from Wetzel himself...) and, really, that's about it.

If you think you can obtain even a fraction of these ingredients that are mentioned here, then, well, you live on Lummi Island and work at the Willows Inn. Super specific sea life, herbs, oils, flowers and the like that are only found in that area of the globe is what goes into the dishes that are presented in this book. So, if you are that ambitious and that skillful then go ahead and have at it. Otherwise, the rest of us will just admire the care that goes into each plate that chef Wetzel creates and sit back and read the rest of it.

Oh, a certain micro green that sprouts for only three days out of the year? Yeah. Have fun with that...

This is an honest to goodness food lovers book, and by that I mean it is a good read. The first half of it is the tale of the rise of a young and ambitious chef (Wetzel) and his rise to power over the Willows Inn and the accolades that soon followed. But it wasn't an easy climb, oh no, this guy had suffered like no other and definitely put his time in to get where he is now.

This is solid work, a real behind the scenes of what it takes to reach the heights that he has. Thing is, it is quite obvious that Blaine Wetzel is just hitting his stride. It's going to be fun to see where this talented chef will be in the years to come. For now, I think he is quite content of owning his own island.

Simple, delicious but...much too tricky

This book is a must have for any haute cuisine fan or even for someone that hails from that region of Washington. It comes off as more of a coffee table book than a utilitarian recipe folder. The images of the landscape is breathtaking, the shots of the food are mind numbing yet divine in their dance play of colors and textures.

But to actually cook this stuff? Yeah right.

Incredible colors and textures but at a cost

"Sea and Smoke" may be a bit pretentious (ok, it's kind of a lot of pretentious) but I just couldn't get over the style, craft and semblance of it all. I've been to Seattle and all but this thing makes me want to explore even further beyond the oaky beer bars and burger stands of that drizzly city and hopefully it'll inspire you to do the same.

But stinging nettles as a primary ingredient? C'mon man.

So tasty I'm sure, but will never know

3) "The Southerners Cookbook" by The Editors of Garden & Gun Magazine

Now we're talking.

Garden & Gun is basically the pulse of the South and now they have a cookbook and all I can say about it is that it is glorious. "The Southerners Cookbook" is a fundamental for any fan of Southern cuisine or for anyone that wants to step up their down home cooking skills.

You just can't fake it when you start with the basics

This cookbook beams with old timey techniques with a modern approach to the Southern kitchen. It lists when you need to properly stock up your pantry, what tools, gadgets and appliances are required and then, blam, it goes right into the recipes.

The ingredients and steps for their dishes are easy to follow and don't discriminate against those who may not be that attuned to the ways of the kitchen. In fact, this book will make any one who loves good honest food to put on an old apron, dig out that forgotten cast iron skillet, toss some lard in and just let things happen. No pretension here, just real food for real folks.

For real.

Yes, they actually have a recipe for aspic

One thing to be aware of: This is a down home Southern cookbook so it's pretty meat-centric. There's also a whole section on just the art of hunting so vegans and squeamish vegetarians beware.

There are a decent amount of vegetable options but....not enough. Plus most of it is cooked in animal fat so...there you go.

Yes please

Again, like all of the cookbooks I mentioned here, there is always a good story to be had, anecdote to learn or essay to read. Sure, the recipes are the main focus here but the tales peppered within are also a twist on the modern cookbook. Like an old Southern grandparent, this book too has some yarns to spin and for that we are most gracious.

Did I mention the pictures for this book? Yeah, awesome. Artfully done but with a cozy honest feel which will make you even hungrier just glancing at the glazed hams, bacon, Hoppin' John and...oh man.

I think I just drooled a little.

"The Southerners Cookbook" is the essential gift for any level home cook and those that believe that Paula Deen was the poofy haired butter demon to what is tried and true about real Southern cooking.

Plus they make good use of okra in several dishes, including a Bloody Mary and I really hate okra. So there you go.

2) "Olympia Provisions: Cured Meats and Tales from an American Charcuterie" by Elias Cairo and Meredith Erickson

We here at the Tucson Homeskillet are HUGE fans of charcuterie, what is also known as a meat and cheese board in some places. Little bites of cured meat, artisan cheese, seasonal fruit, nuts and olives...oh, wait. No, we hate olives. Scratch that, we'll just have more toast points please instead.

Well, the sorcerers over at Olympia Provisions in Portland, Oregon have published a grand book about what they do, how they do it and how you can do it too. With chef Elias Cairo at the helm, this meat bible should be a staple for gastro-carnivores in your immediate circle of holiday gift giving.

(insert drool face here)

Again, this book falls into the trap of having really precise and very challenging recipes with equipment that would take up a large showroom. If you have the gumption to attack these arduous processes of sausage making, smoking, curing and all that then my Metal horns are pointing in your general direction.

Thing is, you don't have to make the items in this book, you can just order them online and throw together your own board to impress the gourmands in your life. Or just sit alone in the dark, eating a charcuterie board while marathoning your favorite show. It's what we do on a regular basis.

Don't hate.

Sopressata is a thing of beauty

This book is definitely not for the vegan in your life. "Olympia Provisions" is really pork heavy and they have little or no time to mess around with frilly plant based dishes. Pork belly is everywhere, as are images of butchered animal. If you are not into that then avoid this one at all costs. For the rest of us, you need this.

The photos are deliciously crisp and are want to inspire you to create such near unattainable greatness. The steps are there, their helping hand is extended, but divinity such as this takes a bit of time and practice.

With this book in your possession you are well on your way to being the next sausage king/queen in your town.

Ha! I see what you did there...

Beyond charcuterie they do offer brunch, lunch and dinner recipes that are a bit more approachable. I mean, they have to. Unless this was a textbook for sausage making and meat butchering, the inclusion of dishes you can actually create without the use of pretentiously specific tools or ingredients is a nice addition.

Plus there is  a great "intermission" in this book, one where the chef and others from the shop take a life changing trek through the Swiss Alps and eventually end up in a small village where they learn the cooking and curing techniques from that region. Eventually they wind up in an almost fairy tale chateau on the sheer cliffs of the Swiss mountainside where they enjoy the fruits and gristle of their efforts and that story alone could be a book unto itself. But it's in this one so...it's got that going for it.

The masters in their domain

Tempting recipes, delectable photos and mouth watering ingredients all go into making this a delightful gift for the serious fooder or just to keep in your collection to spark motivation when the charcuterie yearning comes a calling. And it will call. Oh yes.

I can hear it now. Oh, wait...that's just my stomach grumbling.

Same thing.

Seems easy but...yeah. No.

1) "Mark Bittman's Kitchen Matrix" by...well...Mark Bittman, obviously

We love Mark Bittman. So do you. Of course you do. Who doesn't?

This guy has been breaking it up and laying it down for years and for that we kitchen salute him. His books have transcended most other food books due to his straight to the point approach and the notion that everyone can cook. Be it a rank amateur or a starred chef, Bittman is all like 'we all need to eat, you should know how to cook, let's go!"

Okay, that's not a direct quote but....you see where I am getting at here.

Charts. Ingredients. Pictures. Go!

His newest one for 2015, his "Kitchen Matrix" literally and figuratively blew us away. Each chapter or section or, whatever, features an ingredient, say, eggplant, then jams out a slew of different recipes and ideas on how to treat it and what to do with it then relays those designs into wholly separate devises to bring about a never ending journey with food and flavor. It's really quite brilliant because it is really quite simple.

These recipe generator charts are amazing

Chock full of useful charts, graphs and variations, this cookbook will become the serious home chef's new favorite go to for suggestions on what to do with what you have on hand.

This book goes way beyond any Food Network publication or celebrity chef ego piece. The Kitchen Matrix is useful, really useful, and I highly suggest getting a copy for your hash slinging friends and definitely one for you. Because you will be using this one on a fairly regular basis.

I know we did.

Simple yet exquisite recipes abound

Some food snobs out there may poo poo the straightforward and colorful approach to cooking here but for those that need an extra push in the right culinary direction you just can't go wrong. Mark Bittman covers everything and I do mean...everything. I can almost see this as a near textbook for first year cooking school students. And as a gift for those that just graduated.

Very approachable, extremely reliant and definitely overtly creative when it comes to kitchen mastery. Really good stuff here.

So I've been doing it wrong this whole time...now you tell me!

We hope you enjoy this book as much as we did and have as much fun cooking with it as we have. It not only makes a great gift but it also makes a perfect nook in that already growing cookbook section on your shelves. Heck, this would even be the best first thing to start your cookbook collection.

When you have the food universe at your fingertips, all you can do is get to work and start making worlds of your own.

Have fun!

Donuts make us go, uh...crazy!

I want to thank the Pima County Public Library for providing us with all of these titles and so much more. It was a tough decision making process but with your help our tongues and bellies had a great year and a great food ride because of you.

Cheers!


Camera and Typing
"Metal" Mark Whittaker
Mid-December, 2015

Metal Influence

 Dokken

"Santa Clause is Comin' to Town"